Please someone tell me that I’m not the only victim of locksmiths from hell.

First let me admit that I’m to blame for starting this disaster. My only defense for doing something as stupid as locking myself out of my house is that I’ve just moved and hadn’t yet worked out the new front door.

But what followed definitely wasn’t my fault.

Watch this locksmith open a car

If you’ve forgotten the combination to a Master Lock combination lock, you have a few options. If the lock isn’t locked onto anything, you can make a photocopy of the serial number and send that to Master Lock for the combination. If, however, your lock is attached to something, you can break the lock, call a locksmith, use a shim, or figure out the combination. Of these options, only the last two will leave you with a usable lock without emptying your wallet. Unfortunately, there are 64,000 possible combinations on a standard 40 digit Master Lock. With this method, however, you can quickly narrow that down to 80 combinations, a workable number to try if you’ve got the time and the inclination to give it a shot.

1. Look at the Master Lock brand. This method only works with Master Lock combination locks, and may not work with all of them. It is rumored that Master Lock changed the combination algorithm on some of the newer locks, in particular those with serial numbers starting with the number 800. Some people, however, have reportedly had success cracking these with this method, too, so it may be worth a try. Check the discussion page for this article to check which serial numbers others succeed with.
2. Turn the lock’s dial clockwise to zero. It is a good idea to turn it at least three rotations first, just to make sure it’s clear.
3. Apply steady tension to the shackle and turn the dial clockwise. The shackle is the u-shaped part of the lock that goes around whatever you’re locking. To apply tension you can either pull the shackle up while holding the lock, or you can pull the lock down if the shackle is locked onto something solid. Turn the dial slowly as you apply tension. If you can’t turn the dial at all, release the shackle and turn the dial clockwise just a number or two and then try it again.
4. Find the first sticking point.
   1. As you turn the dial clockwise with tension on the shackle, you will come to a point where you can’t turn the dial anymore. Make note of where it stops. Sometimes it will stick right on the numbers, but sometimes it will be between the numbers. If so, record the number to the half (e.g. 22.5, 7.5, etc.).
   2. While continuing to apply tension to the shackle, turn the dial as far left (counter-clockwise) as you can. Make note of where it stops. Now you have a sticking “range.” (Note: Some 800XXX locks have a two number range [e.g. 28-30], this sticking point is the last digit of your lock.)
   3. Determine the sticking point by finding the number that’s in the midpoint of the sticking range. A range of 4 and 5 would have a sticking point of 4.5. A range of 22.5 and 23.5 would have a sticking point of 23.
5. Release shackle tension and turn the dial slightly past the sticking point. Turn the dial clockwise about one number from the sticking point in order to allow you to “escape” that sticking point.
6. Reapply tension to the shackle and continue turning the dial clockwise to find all the sticking points. You should find a total of twelve sticking points in one complete turn of the dial. Write them down.
7. Find the third number of the combination.
   1. Look at your list of sticking points and eliminate all those which are not whole numbers (i.e. cross off any number that ends in .5). You should eliminate 7 of the 12 numbers with this step.
   2. Of the remaining sticking points, choose the one with the unique digit in the “ones” position. Four of the remaining five numbers will share the same number in the “ones” place, so for example, if the numbers left on the list are 4, 14, 24, 27, and 34, the number 27 is the only one which does not have a four in the “ones” place. This is the third number of the combination.
8. Find the magic number. Divide the third number of the combination (27 in this case) by four and write down the remainder. In this case 27/4 = 6 remainder 3. Remember we are only concerned with the remainder, which will always be 0, 1, 2, or 3. Write down the magic number (3 in this example).
9. Find the possible first numbers of the combination. Add 4 to the magic number (3). Write down the result (7). Now add 4 to that and continue adding 4 to each resulting sum until you have gone completely around the dial once. Write down each of these numbers. Thus, for the example above the numbers would be 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, and 39. One of these numbers is the first number of the combination. (NOTE: For some 800XXX locks this will be the second number of the combination. The next set of numbers will be used as the first)
10. Find the possible second numbers in the combination. If your magic number is 0 or 1 then add 2 to it, otherwise subtract 2. Since our example magic number is 3, we subtract 2 and get 1. Write down the answer and add 4 to it. Now add 4 to each resulting sum until you have gone completely around the dial once. Thus, in the example, the numbers would be 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 33, and 37. One of these numbers is the second number in the combination.
11. Cross out the numbers (the possible 2ND numbers) Plus or Minus 2 [25 & 29] from the third number of the combination[27].
12. Figure out the correct combination by trial and error. You now know all the possible first numbers [3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39], all the possible second numbers [1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 33, 37], and the third number [27]. You’ve just narrowed down 64,000 combinations to only 80. Now try each combination until you find the correct one. If you’re lucky, you may need to try only a few but then again, you may need to try all 80.

For Original: www.wikihow.com

1. Understand how your lock works. The pin-and-tumbler lock consists of a cylinder that can rotate within its housing (see illustrations below). When locked, the cylinder is kept in place by several pairs of pins. The top pin of each pair protrudes into both the cylinder and the housing, thus preventing the cylinder from turning. When the correct key is inserted, it pushes the pairs of pins up so that the top pins no longer enter the cylinder. When this happens, the cylinder can be turned and the lock will open.
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     Note the five pairs of pins. The blue pins enter both the cylinder and the (green) housing around it, thus preventing the cylinder from turning. The springs provide resistance to keep the pins in place.

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     When the key is inserted, the grooves and ridges on the key push the pins up to the correct heights so that all the blue pins are completely out of the cylinder, thus allowing the cylinder to turn and the lock to open.

2. 2
   

   Get a pick and tension wrench. Each pick is specialized for a different problem. A tension wrench, or torque wrench, is the device which you apply pressure with to turn the lock cylinder. Professional-grade picks and tension wrenches can be purchased in sets (see picture), but many lock picking hobbyists make good quality sets of their own. See the Things You’ll Need section below for information on how to make your own picks and tension wrenches.

3. 3

   Place the tension wrench into the lower portion of the keyhole.

4. 4

   Determine which way the cylinder must be turned to unlock the lock. If you commonly use the lock, you probably already know which way you turn the key to open the lock. If you don’t know, use the tension wrench to apply torque to the cylinder, first clockwise and then counterclockwise. The cylinder will only turn a fraction of an inch before it stops. Try to feel the firmness of the stop. If you turn the cylinder the wrong way, the stop should feel very firm and stiff. If you turn it the right way, there should be a bit more give. Some locks, especially among padlocks, will open regardless of which way the cylinder is turned.

5. 5

   Apply light torque to the tension wrench in the correct direction, and hold. The required torque will vary from lock to lock and from pin to pin, so this may require some trial and error. Start gently, though.

6. 6
   

   Picking the lock. The part labeled “plug” is the cylinder.

   Insert the pick into the upper part of the keyhole and feel the pins. With the pick in the keyhole, you should be able to press up and feel the individual pins with the tip of the pick. You should be able to push them up and feel them spring back down when you release the pressure. Try to push each one all the way up. Identify which one is the hardest to push up. If they are all very easy to push up, turn your tension wrench more to increase the torque. If one won’t go up at all, ease the torque until you can push it up. Alternately, you may wish to “rake” the pins before this step (see Tips below).

7. 7

   Push the stubborn pin up until it “sets.” Press the stubborn pin with just enough pressure to overcome the downward pressure of the spring. Remember, the pin is actually a pair of pins. Your pick is pushing against the lower pin, which in turn pushes against the upper pin. Your goal is to push the upper pin completely out of the cylinder. Then, when you stop pushing, the lower pin will fall back down into the cylinder, but the torque on the cylinder will result in a misalignment of the hole in the cylinder with the hole in the housing, and the upper pin should then rest on the cylinder without falling back down. You should hear a faint click as the upper pin falls back down on top of the cylinder. You should also be able to push the lower pin up a little with no resistance from the spring—when this occurs you most likely have the upper pin “set.”

8. 8

   Continue applying torque and repeat the last two steps for each of the remaining pins. It is imperative that you maintain torque on the cylinder to prevent the set pins from dropping back down. You may need to make slight increases or decreases in torque for each pin.

9. 9

   Use the tension wrench to turn the cylinder and unlock the lock. Once all the pins are set, you should be able to turn the cylinder. Hopefully you have already ascertained the correct direction to turn it. If you have chosen the wrong direction, you will need to start over and reset all the pins.

For original see: Wiki How

At one stage in life I worked for a lock manufacturer and travelled extensively around the country training locksmiths. If there was any one underlying fact learned after meeting hundreds of locksmiths, it was that the business of locksmithing is similar no matter if you live south, north east or west. That same lesson was discovered again recently during a business trip to Scandinavia. The products, procedures, heartaches and successes in locksmithing are no different in Europe than they are in the United States.

During the last week of January, I was fortunate enough to attend a locksmith convention in Norway. The convention was located in a beautiful mountainous area 100 miles north of Oslo. With a cross country ski area in the background, more than 400 locksmiths gathered for three days of security training.

Training classes consisted of many topics including lock picking, impressioning, access control and lock bypassing. I acquired some new procedures after sitting in on several classes. All classes were professionally presented and well attended.

Manufacturers and distributors filled a convention floor on Saturday to display their latest products. Familiar manufacturer names such as Assa Abloy, Ingersoll Rand, Silca, DORMA and Bianchi displayed many of the same products found at any locksmith convention in North America. Transponder programming tools, high security lock cylinders and access control products were featured throughout the convention floor.

Norwegian Locksmiths (NL) stages this event every year during the last week in January. Locksmith business owners usually pay the cost of sending their employees to the convention. The idea is that well-trained employees become more productive employees. A friendly atmosphere, first class education, large convention facility plus great buffets all made for a very productive and enjoyable weekend. My thanks to NL for allowing me to attend.

Before returning, I visited a locksmith business in Copenhagen, Denmark, which is owned by Hans Mejlshede. Mr. Mejlshede employees more than 50 people in his business. He is one of the largest selling Medeco dealers in Europe and has a full time staff of locksmiths rekeying Medeco cylinders. If an unusual housing does not exist, his in-house machine shop can quickly fabricate housings to accept a Medeco plug and complete the job.

Another area in his 25,000-square-foot building has CNC equipment to fabricate stainless steel pieces for kick plates or escutcheon plates. An electric hoist and fork lift unit are available to move safes. Special software was developed to help his phone operators monitor and track job orders. A quiet sense of efficiency and purpose was noted in every corner of the business.

Hans Mejlshede is also President of the Danish Locksmith Federation (DLF) and former President of the European Locksmith Federation (ELF). Locksmith business owners from around Denmark invest notable annual dues to be part of the Federation. DLF works with business and government leaders, insurance companies and manufacturers to assure the best possible business climate for DLF members.

After leaving Scandinavia I tried to put my visit into some kind of perspective. Our system in the U.S. for helping locksmiths has always focused on education. Whether at ALOA or elsewhere, once the class is over, you are on your own to find work.

The European system has the same problems we do. An article in an ELF publication lists some of their problems as: “rogue locksmiths advertising in phone books,” “manufacturers dealing directly with end-users,” “hardware stores getting more involved in locksmith work,””maintenance people doing locksmiths work,” “internet sales of locks and technical information.”

Groups like DLF and ELF are doing something about it. They are working with lock manufacturers and insurance companies so locksmiths can become the security leader instead of the business of last resort. Federations such as DLF and ELF are actively placing their name before the public so people recognize them as the authority in security matters. As a result, locksmiths in several additional countries across Europe are requesting membership in ELF while membership in most U.S. locksmith associations is decreasing.

Education is important and necessary, but it is not enough.

Without some organized system for generating business as a group, we cannot hope to achieve any better conditions than we currently face. Perhaps we can borrow some of the ideas and talent from our European counterparts.

Courtesy of: The Locksmith Ledger

A locksmith is someone who specializes in locks. Anyone who has been locked out of their car or home is probably familiar with one of the services a locksmith offers, but locksmiths do a lot more than helping people get back into their locked homes. This profession is quite ancient; as long as there have been locks and keys to fit them, there have been people to specialize in them. In addition to handling locks, some locksmiths also work in security consulting, since locks are one way to control access to something.

As with any profession with “smith” in the title, locksmiths originally fabricated locks and keys from metal, although modern locksmiths also work with electronic locks, ranging from key card entry systems to biometric locks. Locksmiths install, repair, and adjust locks in everything from cars to office buildings, and they also offer services to people who are locked out or individuals who want to consult with someone about their security systems.

Most locksmiths need a lot of equipment for the practice of their trade, and it is not uncommon for a locksmith to use a van to carry his or her tools around. Locksmiths typically carry tools which are designed for picking locks, so that they can get into locked structure and vehicles, and they also have equipment to fabricate keys, program electronic locks, and to perform other tasks related to the profession, such as diagnosing problems with electronic lock and security systems.

When a locksmith installs locks on an office building, he or she usually becomes that building’s default locksmith, because of his or her presumed familiarity with the building’s locks. Some locksmiths retain extra key sets, by request, to gain quick entry when needed. They also keep records of the types of locks used in a structure, replacement or repair work undertaken, and any other relevant information, such as connection with a security system which demands that a code be entered when a door is unlocked.

To become a locksmith, most people train as apprentices. It helps to have metal fabricating, construction, and electronics skills, but these are not required; locksmiths perform such specific tasks that these skills can be learned on the job. In some regions, locksmiths are licensed, and legal codes may lay out the term under which titles like “Master Locksmith” may be used. Good locksmiths are excellent problem solvers who are willing to work at unusual hours, and they are of course discreet, as they often handle confidential or sensitive information.

Courtesy of : Wise Geek